A great deal of West Jordan is newer Salt Lake County subdivision, which means yards full of trees still small enough to shape. This is the cheapest and most…
A great deal of West Jordan is newer Salt Lake County subdivision, which means yards full of trees still small enough to shape. This is the cheapest and most consequential tree work anybody will ever do on the property, and it is almost always the work that gets skipped. A young tree is easy to reach from the ground, the cuts are small, the wounds close readily, and the decisions being made now set what the tree will be at full size. Nobody notices good structural pruning, because a well-built tree never becomes the kind of problem you notice.
The work itself is unglamorous. You are choosing a single dominant leader instead of letting two compete, spacing the permanent scaffold limbs along the trunk instead of letting several crowd out of one point, and taking off the limb that crosses and rubs another before it wounds it. Cuts are made at the branch collar, the same as on any tree of any size. The difference is scale. A cut you could make today with hand pruners becomes, if it waits, a cut that needs a climber, a rope, and a far larger wound for the tree to seal.
When two stems of about the same size grow up together from one point, neither one becomes the trunk, and the union between them often includes bark pressed in where solid wood should be. That is a weak attachment, and it is the classic place a tree splits under wind or a heavy wet snow load. On a mature tree the options there are limited and expensive. On a young one it is simply a decision: reduce or remove one of the two so the other takes over as the leader. A small cut, made once, and the failure never gets the chance to happen.
The same logic covers a few other things worth catching early. Limbs left low on the trunk that will end up in the way of a driveway or a walk are much easier to plan for than to fix. A tight cluster of branches all emerging at one height crowds itself and stays weak. And damage to the trunk matters more than people think. A strip of bark torn off by a string trimmer or a mower deck is a wound the tree has to work around from then on, and it is entirely preventable with a little room around the base.
It is tempting, once you have decided to prune the young trees, to prune them thoroughly. Do not. A young tree needs its foliage to build the trunk and the root system that will carry it later, and stripping the lower limbs off so it looks like a mature tree is a common and counterproductive habit. The right visit is often three or four cuts, chosen deliberately, and then leaving the tree alone. If somebody quotes a lot of work on a small tree, ask them to name each cut and give you the reason for it.
Timing follows the species and the purpose, and dormant-season work suits many trees, when the branch structure is easy to read. But the honest headline for a new subdivision is that these trees need looking at more than they need cutting. A short check every year or two, catching a competing leader or a rubbing limb while the fix is still a pencil-thick decision, is the entire program. Nearly everything expensive that happens to a tree later began as something small that nobody dealt with while it was still easy.
This is the best time for it, and the least likely time for it to happen. Young trees are where structure gets decided: one leader instead of two, scaffold limbs spaced along the trunk, crossing branches removed before they wound each other. The cuts are small, they close easily, and they head off the failures that get expensive on a full-size tree. The visit is usually short. Ask for the reasoning behind each cut so you know what you bought.
Checked more often than it is cut. A brief look every year or two catches a competing leader, a rubbing limb, or a tight fork while the fix is still one small cut. In between, watch for the obvious: a new lean, a wound on the trunk, dead twigs concentrated in one area. The point of a schedule is not routine cutting. It is that nothing gets missed long enough to turn into a structural problem.
It matters, and it is worth having looked at. Bark is the tree's protection, and the tissue just beneath it moves everything the tree needs up and down the trunk. A strip removed around the base interrupts that and opens the wound to decay. Keep grass and equipment away from the trunk from here on. Do not paint or wrap it; have someone assess how much of the circumference was affected and what that means.
Some trees do have to come down. How that goes is decided by access, by what sits underneath the tree, and by whether it can be dropped whole or has to be taken apart in pieces from the top down.
Learn more →Real pruning takes specific limbs off at the branch collar for a specific reason: clearance, deadwood, a rubbing branch. It does not mean shortening everything on the tree, and we match you with crews that know the difference.
Learn more →Wind and heavy wet snow leave limbs hanging over driveways, cars and doorways. That is the real urgency. You get crews who triage the hazard over your head first and worry about tidy cleanup second.
Learn more →Grinding is a separate operation from removal, with its own machine and its own gate-width problem. It also makes a startling volume of chips, so you should decide up front how deep it goes and where those chips end up.
Learn more →A lean, a split fork, mushrooms at the base, a strip of bark gone: the tree is telling you something. An assessment reads it honestly, and often the honest answer is that the tree is fine and should be left alone.
Learn more →Get the tree looked at by someone who will tell you to leave it alone.
Call 801-823-6018Describe the tree, what is under it, and what changed. We will take it from there.